九月十一日上午九點，船到阿拉斯加最東南面的城市凱奇坎（Ketchikan）。船上規(guī)定，下午五點半開船。

        凱奇坎也是十九世紀末阿拉斯加克朗代克淘金潮時代興起的城鎮(zhèn)，不過這里更看重捕魚。這個依山傍海的好地方原來這個地方是印第安人不同種族的居住地，這里也是美國的國鳥禿鷹的故鄉(xiāng)，這異常兇猛的鷹也叫白頭海鵰。所以凱奇坎按照印第安人語的意思就是“展翅之鷹”。這里的原住民的圖騰哪一根都少不了鷹的形象。這里也叫世界鮭魚之都，年年這里有無數(shù)的鮭魚回家，年年這里有更多新生的鮭魚出海。

        淘金潮退去，采礦業(yè)和林業(yè)都逐漸衰落，這里的經(jīng)濟還是靠捕魚和越來越熱的旅游。如同當年淘金潮一樣樣，世界各地捕魚的高手也云集在凱奇坎，每年在政府規(guī)定的時間規(guī)定的海域捕撈鮭魚和其他深海魚類。這里從1883年就建立了鮭魚加工腌制廠，到1930年，這里就形成了年產(chǎn)150萬箱的鮭魚出口的能力?；貋砗笤诰W(wǎng)上看到一個紀錄片，講的就是凱奇坎的漁民在海上的艱苦作業(yè)。他們一年的生計都在這個捕魚期，一個家庭或幾個朋友一條船，早出晚歸在風浪中搏斗。運氣好的時候，一條船能捕撈到上萬美金的鮭魚。運氣不好的時候，出一趟海也就能撈上幾十條魚，幾百美金的收入還不夠一天的油錢。而且捕魚同行也是競爭激烈，搶占水域，搶占魚群。對那些違規(guī)作業(yè)的漁船，漁船甚至還要承擔巨額罰款...這些情況到現(xiàn)在也是如此，年復一年。

        至于旅游，凱奇坎的節(jié)目就多了，有戶外探險項目；有圖騰國家公園；有土著人村落；有波多拉支公園；有禿鷹中心；有鋸木頭的表演；更有十九世紀的紅燈區(qū)溪街。要是想出海，不但可以看峽灣，還可以看鯨魚。要是想看熊，也許能碰到眾多的棕熊在河灣里捕食鮭魚。當?shù)氐穆眯猩缈梢园才拍愠舜?，或者坐小飛機看這些，也可以安排你坐汽車，在市里轉(zhuǎn)轉(zhuǎn)。時間兩單個小時，價錢從幾十美刀到一二百美刀，一切行程全看你的時間和口袋里的銀子啦?？吹揭粋€旅行社說能花四十五美刀讓我們看到棕熊，偶們沒有去，因為一路上聽不少人講，棕熊早就跑到深山老林去了，不到極偏遠的地方的河流，很難看到它們的出沒，更難看到它們大口吃魚的場面?？吹竭@需要好運，偶們沒有啊。

         所以這一天就在凱奇坎城里自己轉(zhuǎn)，看大街小巷，哪個博物館開門就進去看一眼，哪個商店里面的東東漂亮就在邊上拍一張。這凱奇坎不大的地方居然也走了六七個小時。

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